Sofia Achaval’s Fall 2020 Paris Men’s Fashion Week Diary: Day 1
The Daily Front Row’s Paris correspondent, Sofia Achaval de Montaigu, attends the shows at Paris Men’s Fashion Week and lets us know what is going down on the biggest runway in the City of Lights.
Day 1: January 15, 2020
Off-White’s show kicked off fashion week at the Carrousel du Louvre. The show began in total darkness while dancer Cartier Williams moved around in his tap shoes with a light finally focusing on him. Immediately afterwards, models came out with a very relaxed walk, greeting each other and as if they were on the street.
Virgil Abloh’s collection included a selection of suits in tones of black, gray and vibrant colors such as green and red, which were my favorites. Many of the clothes had holes that let us see the models’ skin. Sweaters with big turtlenecks also made the cut, along with poncho-like coats that stood out on the runway. The accessories like sunglasses and hats that made the outfits top notch. To close the show, models stood below a chandelier and Abloh came out to a crowd that applauded and cheered. Like everything Abloh does, Off White feels more like a spectacle than a fashion show.
At Valentino’s show at the Grand Palais I ran into celebrities like Tamino, Luka Sabbat, and singer AMA Lou. There was a black stage in the middle of the runway where singer FKA Twigs, sang live during the presentation. She was joined by a pianist and a cellist, creating a very moving set.
The collection was mainly neutral colors with strikes of red, yellow, and orange. These were seen in coats with floral prints, and repeated in shirts, bags, and even the models’ hair. Classic tailored items had phrases like “j’want” printed on them and other garments such as long jackets had the brand’s logo. Bags played a big part in the collection. They came in different sizes and designs, including fanny packs, backpacks, and handbags, all covered in prints and appliqués. They are without a doubt a must-have for next season.
JW Anderson’s fashion show took place at the Lafayette Anticipations. Big personalities from the fashion world sat first row, as well as mannequins featuring masks of the late French poet Arthur Rimbaud. The masks were based on photos by David Wojnarowocz, who’s work was the inspiration for the collection. The collection featured colorful prints on items such as big capes and enormous golden chains — JW Anderson’s distinctive sign — which were also used to decorate the shoes. Innovation came in form of long robes made of stretching fabric with pants underneath, as well as maxi scarves that completed the wintery looks.